Political Atrocities 2001
Author Archives: Don Rose
The Grub Game
Recipe for Long Life: How the Heartland Cafe’s Antiestablishment Founders Built an Institution
What a Whitewash
I was absolutely stunned by Ben Joravsky’s effort to gloss over the blatantly racist history of Ed Kelly, the 47th Ward committeeman [December 24]. According to Joravsky–who ought to know better–it would be wrong to consider Kelly a “bigot” simply because he made a “mistake” and opposed Harold Washington and is therefore erroneously lumped with […]
Restaurant Tours: one big kitchen
Fusion cooking is taking so many twists and turns that one day there’s just going to be one big cuisine–a true global village of fine dining. Some believe the fusion movement got started back in the early 70s when a mythic French chef dropped a slice of fresh ginger into his snail stew. But the […]
Restaurant Tours: catches of the day
Chicagoans continue to gobble up all the fish they can find, but somehow specialized seafood houses have a tough time surviving. Though seafood scarfing has increased exponentially since the early 80s, and the mainstays–the Cape Cod Room, Shaw’s Crab House, and Nick’s Fishmarket–have all enjoyed long life spans, many other fine fish houses have sunk […]
Restaurant Tours: Nuevo Latino is heating up
This may be the year Nuevo Latino cooking finally takes off in Chicago. When the restaurant Mas opened in Wicker Park on the first day of the Great Blizzard of ’99, it was immediately filled with customers. A month earlier Rich Melman opened the more upscale Nacional 27 in River North where Hat Dance had […]
Restaurant Tours: French–it’s the new Italian!
After a decade-long procession of new Italian restaurants, we’re seeing one closing after another, while the new tendency is decidedly French. Grappa, Tra Via, and La Risotteria Nord all said ciao for now. Rich Melman, whose trend-spotting talents built a dining empire, shuttered Avanzare and Tucci Milan. He’ll make one French, the other French-Thai. When […]