Credit: Mike Sula

In Italy you’d be crucified for melting cheese with shrimp, but this is Mexico, via McKinley Park, and at this Nayarit-style mariscos joint the secret weapon on the sprawling, aquatically focused menu is a thick, house-made corn tortilla folded over snappy, sweet shrimp sauteed in butter, onions, tomato, jalapeño, and cilantro, all bound together by gooey melted Chihuahua cheese. But don’t settle for just that. Look your server right in the eye and tell her you want it made with the La Palapa sauce, a rich, piquant potion that the house only admits contains butter and “some spices”—but discriminating palates speculate contains Maggi-brand seasoning and hot sauce.