Credit: Jason Hauck

Dusek’s is a place where you can get a plate on which everything is arranged in an arty straight line of dribs and globs (and the plate will be too wide to comfortably fit your two-top). It’s also a place where you can have a cheeseburger that oozes goo at you like a deep-fried Twinkie at the county fair.

For Dusek’s take on a semiobscure midwest specialty, the Juicy Lucy (in which American cheese is melted inside two patties), chef Jared Wentworth starts with a kind of cheddar Mornay sauce that he slips between two patties of Slagel Family Farm beef. The next step, as he told food writer Anthony Todd, is “crimping it together like a ravioli” before frying it. It’s hot, it’s messy, it’s classy-trashy, and it just might be the best thing on the menu at one of the best new places in town.