The Heart of the Dead Credit: Alison Green

There’s that moment on the third or fourth date when a certain comfort level finally sets in—enough to order dishes or drinks with the intention of splitting them. A big step in the relationship, really. The problem arises, however, when your dinner partner orders a drink like Masa Azul’s Heart of the Dead—a florid, sweet concoction fronted by sotol blanco and complemented by passion fruit, pomegranate, limonada, Hum liqueur, and blood orange. And you can’t stop reaching across the table. The Logan Square spot’s cocktail list, overseen by mixologist Jenny Kessler, mostly comprises tequila, mezcal, and sotol, a spirit that comes from the desert spoon plant of Chihuahua, Durango, and Coahuila. During our visit, I opted for the High West Campfire Whiskey Edition, because I’m completely predictable and unadventurous and went with a whiskey drink at a southwestern restaurant. But the Heart of the Dead, with its punchlike fruitiness and hint of spice, ended up ruling the table and is easily enough of a reason to hit up the restaurant’s patio this summer.