The potato dumplings—vareniky—are almost as good as the ones my grandmother made, and the vodka’s more interesting than what my grandfather drank. The vareniky are boiled and buttered, and served with sour cream, a yogurt sauce, and a carrot salad. The three one-ounce shots in the Molotov Cocktail flight—Absolut Peppar, house pepper-honey, and, especially, the house horseradish—scald the nose; do not exhale near an open flame. Best to drink before eating so you can also catch a later flight. And then it’s back to work.