Baby octopus isn’t even close to the most challenging item on Chizakaya’s eight-item kushiyaki (skewers) menu, which also features duck hearts and chicken gizzards. They’re actually pretty cute: the little pair of cephalopods look sort of like they might start tap dancing, despite being skewered through the neck. Marinated in sambal (a southeast Asian condiment involving chile peppers, salt, and other spices and aromatics), sugar, and fish sauce and then lightly grilled, they’re smoky, tender, and a bit chewy. I’m told they’re not the most popular choice on the menu—chicken skins and Wagyu cheek hold that honor. But maybe they should be.