Credit: Mike Sula

Instead of going the usual route, Cafe Orchid owner Kurt Serpin cuts beef liver into bitty manageable nuggets, dusts them with flour, and fries them until crisp with cumin and bits of potato. The liver’s inherently metallic richness is cut by a generous side of raw onion and a tomato salad sprinkled with chile pepper and parsley and generously squirted with fresh lemon. Not like mother used to make—unless she was Turkish.