Kith & Kin

1119 W. Webster

The principals behind Kith & Kin could’ve hyped their inviting new spot as a gastropub and earned an oxygen-depleting collective yawn. But they didn’t, and a stealthy early-December opening attracted mobs to this otherwise culinarily bereft pocket of Lincoln Park. And they haven’t let up yet.

Chefs David Carrier and Andrew Brochu both worked with or under Grant Achatz at one time or another, but there’s little here that brings to mind fine-dining icons like Trio or the French Laundry. Instead what you have is an attractive, affordable menu served in a room that suggests all the comforts of neighborhood pubbery without resorting to the usual cliches.

Many others have gone this route in recent months—Longman & Eagle, the Fountainhead, Gilt Bar, to name a few—but none have done it with such casual, unpretentious consistency, from the $5 spreadable “crocks” with crostini to early-summer menu highlights like buttermilk-fried chicken thighs with green garlic-morel potato salad, tagliatelle with radish sprouts in English pea broth, and mammoth shareable whole roasted sea bass and grilled ribeye. This is the kind of irresistible place every neighborhood deserves.