Credit: Kiki Yablon

wild mushroom-brown rice burger at Sable Kitchen & Bar

505 N. State

Ironically the best veggie burger I’ve encountered in years is on the (lunch) menu at a place that offers so many other good-looking vegetable preparations—sweet corn creme brulee, crispy red lentil cake in coconut red curry broth, spring pea-asparagus soup with minted yogurt—that you might never feel compelled to order it. Fortunately, on my first trip to Sable, in the new Hotel Palomar next to the AMA building (and across the street from the Reader), the waiter went out of his way to recommend the wild mushroom-brown rice patty, and I’ve been back for it four times since. Served on an oaty bun, it’s about an inch thick—crispy on the outside and soft and earthy on the inside—and topped with tangy goat cheese, sweet red-onion jam, and on at least one occasion a creamy porcini aioli unheralded in the menu description. It’s $12, but it comes with a big pile of mixed greens and pickled veggies, or ask to sub spicy fries.