4053 N. Kedzie

Five years ago Luis Garcia opened the first Peruvian rotisserie chicken joint in town, and though it’s not the only one anymore—in fact, he’s facing competition from at least half a dozen South American pollerias these days—it’s still the best. Garcia’s chicken is particularly plump and juicy, having been brined and then marinated overnight in about 15 different ingredients, including garlic, cumin, oregano, black pepper, vinegar, and beer. And while D’Candela is somewhat sleepy during the week, on weekends it’s packed all day and well into the night with pisco- and wine-sipping Peruvians—who Garcia estimates make up 90 percent of his customer base—thus insuring rapid bird turnover. “I don’t pay much attention to the competition,” he says. And he doesn’t need to.