Best Secret Menu Item

Scofflaw chef Mickey Neely was inspired to create this delectable behemoth in tribute to the stacked “supertortas” served at Pilsen’s Doña Torta Chilanga. Depending on whom you ask, the name means “groovy” or “sexy lady,” but either way, the former Longman & Eagle cook combines the meats from his three on-menu sandwiches into this utterly depraved nine-deck monstrosity containing braised brisket, lard-fried pork belly, and roasted pork loin, plus pork jus, white bean puree, pimenton aioli, butter, avocado, lettuce, tomatoes, sriracha, cilantro, whole-grain mustard, creme fraiche, pickled cauliflower, pickled red onion, and chicken liver mousse—all on a toasted telera from nearby Panaderia La Estrella. Somehow, against all the laws of physics and good taste, it works. He only builds five per night, and doesn’t list it on the menu for fear of attracting the CPD bomb squad.