Credit: Christian Seel

By now, everyone knows the drill at Next. Chefs Dave Beran and Grant Achatz completely retool the restaurant’s menu every four months, taking inspiration from a particular cuisine (vegan, kaiseki), region (Sicily, Thailand), or theme (childhood, foraged). In January, Next introduced Chicago Steakhouse, offering such old-school staples as lobster Thermidor, shrimp cocktail, and, of course, a 30-day aged sirloin. There weren’t really any surprises, save for something called Two-Jacket Potato: a hollowed-out potato whose skin had the taste and texture of a perfect potato chip, filled with bone-marrow puree, hash browns, and home fries. Beran and company didn’t play it up—it came as a side dish accompanying the main course—but it was easily the most inventive item on Next’s most conventional menu, as unforgettable as it was decadent.