Taza Bakery

3100 W. Devon

If you’ve tried a Middle Eastern spinach pie—I mean the bready, triangular kind, not the phyllo-dough kind—and never wanted a second one, all I can say is you clearly haven’t had one of Taza’s. At $1.25 apiece, it’s at the very least a low-risk proposition. The bread is thin and pleasantly firm, golden and a bit crisp on top, never soggy with olive oil or water. The pies puff up in the oven, leaving about an inch of air above the filling, which is piled a half-inch deep in spots. The spinach has a nice tang from lemon juice and a touch of ground sumac, plus a savory bite from minced onion and black pepper—the complexity of the flavor belies the simplicity of the ingredients. Taza may not look auspicious from the outside—it’s stuck in an ugly strip mall west of Devon’s main Indian drag—but you won’t regret going in. —Philip Montoro