Lil’ Johnny’s birria sausages

The Butcher & Larder

1026 N. Milwaukee

The Butcher & Larder’s Rob Levitt harbors no bias against plus-size goats. When farmer Louis John Slagel couldn’t sell a 60-pounder, Levitt had no fear it’d be too tough. He just called Jonathan Zaragoza—heir to the finest roasted birria dynasty north of La Barca, Jaliso—who arrived with a supply of his mother’s brick-red ancho mole. Into the grinder it went with coarsely ground chivo leg, belly, and shoulder, a bit of pork fat, and some extra cilantro, and a tribute to the primeval symbiosis between chef and butcher was born. Stuffed only sporadically, these meaty plumpers sold out in four hours the last time the guys got together. Follow @butcherlarder and @goatboyintl on Twitter, and get ready to jump the fence next time they start bleating about it. —Mike Sula