“The only thing that likes raw fish are cats,” Robert Schuffler announces. Schuffler, a spry 92-year-old who has the air of someone who’s absolutely content with what he’s done with his life, is usually genial, bordering on twinkly. But there are certain subjects he gets passionate about, and the modern trend of cooking fish rare in the center is clearly one of them. “That’s why I think the youngsters and their husbands don’t eat the fish, because half of it is raw,” he says. I don’t dare ask if he’s ever had sushi.