I admit I underestimated the market for kosher barbecue in East Lakeview, but there I was Monday night at Milt’s Barbecue for the Perplexed, wheedling for a few seats in a slickly designed restaurant packed to overflowing with yarmulke-sporting frummers and frumas, all going to town on burgers, fries, chili, and salads.

Lakeview? OK, it isn’t Skokie, or even Rogers Park, but it’s been home to a significant Jewish population since the 30s, and it’s still home to three temples, Orthodox, Conservative, and Reform, respectively. Besides that, there aren’t a great many kosher restaurants around town to begin with, and Milt’s* is targeting a very specific demographic that will travel for a novel place to fress within the law. Naturally you won’t find pork or dairy on the menu, but beyond that owner Jeff Aeder, a realtor, says he’s donating 100 percent of Milt’s profits to a different charity each month. Plus, the restaurant accepts take-out orders for Shabbat, hosts screenings and lectures on Jewish affairs, and is closed from 2:30 PM Fridays until 7:30 PM Saturdays. It doesn’t even fire up the smokers on the Sabbath.