There’s wanting and there’s wanting. A few disappointments present themselves straightaway on the menu at Bar Pastoral, the new Lakeview wine-and-sundry restaurant from the folks behind the Pastoral grocery enterprise, which opened its first shop in 2004. It’s since added two downtown location; Bar Pastoral represents an attempt to move the fancy cheeses and meats that Pastoral sells for take-home onto the plate, served in a convivial atmosphere that, on a recent Friday night, was the right amount of busy. The chef is Chrissy Camba, a former contestant on Top Chef who’s worked at Vincent and HB Home Bistro.

The menu is taken up mostly by cheeses, to which are appended little descriptions that range in helpfulness: “Fresh cream, grass, luscious.” They’re available by the piece or on plates of three ($16) or five ($25); so are items off a shorter menu of cured meats ($25 for five, too—that’s the whole list); and so are three selections of house-made charcuterie. One wishes for some way to more broadly sample the menu—a mixed plate of cheese and meat would be a benefit. So, for that matter, would a glass of wine cheaper than $10, but wine prices are the same across the board: $44 a bottle, $10 a glass, and $5 a half glass. (A half bottle would be nice too!)