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This thing used to horrify me when it appeared every year at Christmas lunch, but over time I’ve come to love it. I imagine it arose out of the same hoary mind-set as the nut-coated cheese ball. There are a million recipes for it, incorporating nonsense as varied as olives, hot sauce, garlic salt, nuts, green onions, pickle relish, mayo, and ketchup. But as you’ll see after the jump, my mom’s simple six-ingredient recipe is the best: