Screw the Bongo Room. Here at the Reader we’ve been keeping a running list of “secret brunches.” The other day, for example, I was excited to see that the Humboldt Park chicken shack Feed now serves breakfast on the weekends (including Sundays). On the no-nonsense menu: Scotch eggs, biscuits and gravy, hot links hash, and what my friend Robin wryly describes as “ironic coffee.”
Mexican restaurants make up the bulk of the (short) list — another friend was raving recently about the breakfast at El Taco Veloz, and managing editor Kiki Yablon has hit Adobo Grill in Wicker Park two out of the last three Sundays. She recommends the cafe de olla, a strong coffee boiled with cinnamon, orange peel, and dark brown sugar, and says that on both visits the place has been virtually empty — no see-and-be-seen action, but also no waiting.
What I really want, though, is the full-on, protein-loaded Japanese spread: rice, miso soup, grilled fish, pickles, beans. I haven’t found it yet. Any suggestions?
In other breakfast-related news: starting February 1 the Handlebar will be open every day for breakfast at 10 AM. New chef Jennifer Cooley’s working up some new specials, including what owner Josh Deth calls “fry pies,” fruit-filled turnoveresque pastries a la McDonald’s. Except, you know, fresh and delicious.