• Roast these and bathe them in a citrus reduction and you’ve got yourself a damn good taco

Someone—I won’t shame him by divulging his name—recently told me he’s “over beets.”

I assume he meant he’s over them in the same way one is over boyfriend jeans or Odd Future or cupcakes or Record Store Day, things that were cool for a time but—now that everyone’s into them—aren’t so cool anymore, even though there’s nothing inherently off-putting about them (except for Odd Future; they became cool by virtue of being off-putting).

The blasé beet guy is operating under the assumption that a vegetable, like a fashion trend, can go out of style—as if a vegetable’s cachet has some kind of limited life span. My god.

To prove him wrong, I found a beet that will resurrect the root vegetable’s place in the hierarchy of hipness. It’s inside a taco, which sounds contrived until you bite into it and realize what a divine thing a charred-yet-juicy-on-the-inside beet can be, especially when bathed in a citrus reduction and nestled inside a handmade corn tortilla. This beet was downright meaty.