• Uni Sushi’s uni sushi, with tamago at left

The little Wicker Park storefront at 1752 W. North has seen restaurants come and go—formerly El Rincon Azteca, it was a creperie prior to that. In June it became home to Uni Sushi, a sushi and robata bar offering more than your average neighborhood Asian restaurant. There’s even an uni ice cream on the menu, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

Passing on the uni shooter, we started with a small plate of hamachi with jalapeño, pickled radish, and ponzu vinaigrette, the perfect beginning for a steamy summer supper—we devoured it in a flash. We ordered multiple robata, which range from a host of vegetarian options ($1.25 per) to seafood and meat; the Moo Ping, garlic-marinated pork shoulder, and the bacon-eggplant emerged as our favorites. The Sakana, a fish ball, was also tasty, its texture not dissimilar to a firm marshmallow. With the vast majority of these skewers priced at under two bucks, you can afford to go wild.

The a la carte portion of the menu offers a choice of preparation for each: sushi, sashimi, or maki. We went with sushi for our uni, a large, velvety mouthful. Ditto for the tamago, whose eggy sweetness balanced out the faintly savory seasoned rice, setting the tone for the maki to follow.