• Mike Sula
  • Capsicum chilly garlic dosa, Sankalp

Would you go to a Japanese chain for Korean food? Plenty do—I’ve heard from a lot of Japanese folks who disagreed with my dismissal of Gyu-Kaku, the yakiniku megachain that does a bowdlerized version of Korean barbecue. Despite my general suspicion of such culinary cultural appropriation, why did I get so excited when I’d heard that India’s largest restaurant chain had colonized Schaumburg and Mount Prospect? Especially since said chain, which specializes in southern Indian food, originated in the northern state of Gujarat.