This summer I was all set to write a love letter to a new small-batch pasta brand coming out of Rockford called Valentino Pasta. Its namesake, Jeff Valentino, had given me a bag of his creste di gallo, an unusual coxcomb shape, and though it had taken me several weeks to get around to making it, once I did I was floored at how tasty it was. Super chewy, with a ruddy, sauce-bonding texture, it had a nutty, almost sourdough-like flavor I’m not sure I’d ever come across before. I immediately rang up Valentino, but by then it was too late. After just a few short months of production his $7,000 imported pasta maker had broken down, and he’d been unable to find anyone to service it. Production was halted indefinitely and his stock dwindled to nothing.