If a half-naked Aztec warrior-princess appears in a restaurant and there’s no one there to see her, does she cause a fuss? Remember last November when some anonymous upright citizen hollered cop about the exposed breasts on the fierce maiden who hung on the wall in Logan Square’s Real Tenochtitlan, and then management painted over them?

Real Tenochtitlan is gone, but the painting, by muralist Oscar Romero, is back, and the areola mammae have reappeared as well, peeking out from behind some sort of binding antisupport garment. It’s hanging in the exact same spot on the wall at Polanco, the “classic Latino steak house” that replaced Real Tenochtitlan. That means owner Cesar Reyes, who’s cheffed in a bunch of places over the past few decades (Spruce, Nine, Smith & Wollensky, Park Grill, Chicago Firehouse, 33 Club, and Zapatista), is offering a range of classic steak house standards—oysters, onion, soup, wedge salads, steaks (naturally)—with overt and not-so-overt Mexican twists.