We’re on Madison Street, and we get a stigma of being Madison Street because when the riots was, a lot of things burned on Madison Street—all the way. But at Edna’s, we just have a beautiful clientele of customers. Even the young people—teenagers, we right here at Marshall High School—it’s like home, you know. We have—we have order here. It’s order. It’s nothing playing and, you know, carrying on, so a lot of people like to come.

Ever since the great Edna Stewart passed away last month there’s been grim talk that her legendary west-side soul food restaurant might close.

A call just confirmed it: tomorrow 44-year-old Edna’s will serve its last biscuits.

For a beautiful picture of just how special Edna and her eponymous restaurant were, there’s nothing better than this oral history by Amy Evans of the Southern Foodways Alliance.