Last year’s opening of Taqueria LP Express in North Mayfair wasn’t a mere foray beyond the borders of Las Tres Pasaditas’ Ukrainian Village stronghold. Evidently it was just the opening thrust in what appears to be a major push for citywide and suburban taco domination.

The Espinoza family has already opened a fifth outpost at 5211 W. Diversey, and according to Ashland Avenue HQ there are two more in the works at 1590 N. Rand in Palatine and the one getting the new paint job above at 2925 W. Irving Park. That’s a stretch that’s home to an increasingly motley but significant variety of bars, and thusly a large number of high-value targets in the late-night hours. Or so it would seem. You’d think a captive army of inebriates could’ve saved El Gallo Toño, which turned out wonderful handmade huaraches in the very same space.