It’s easy to glaze over at talk of doughnuts being the new bacon, the new cupcake, the new hype-driven fill-in-the-blank whatever. Especially if you don’t much like doughnuts, glazed or otherwise. So when I heard about Firecakes Donuts, a new shop in River North, I rolled my eyes and went back to wishing I could start the day with a bagel from Reno.

I may be in a minority.

On my way to check out Firecakes just before 9 o’clock Thursday morning, I saw a cheery-looking man and woman come out of the place bearing four large white boxes of doughnuts apiece. Once inside, I found a line of about a half-dozen people and a sadly depleted selection of the 11 varieties made on-site daily, in quantities, I’m told, of 600 to 1,000 altogether. At Firecakes as at its predecessor, the remarkably similar Doughnut Vault, it pays to arrive close to opening time, which in this case means 7:30 AM weekdays, 8:30 AM on weekends. At both, once the doughnuts are gone the doors close.