Is there such a thing as too much bacon? I know some would say “never,” but after two trips to Bluebird I’m not so sure. Don’t get me wrong: this new Bucktown wine bar/gastropub/hoo-ha (next to Hot Chocolate) is a pretty nice place. It’s low key and affordable, unless you go nuts and decide to order too much cheese. It’s not very sceney–both times I was, if not the most fashionable person there, at least the most dressed, in that I wasn’t wearing cargo shorts, flip-flops, and a ratty t-shirt. The wine list is divided into silly categories by climate, but the wine is good. And the beer list is awesome. But when four out of five things on the menu involve some sort of cured pork product, you’ve gotta wonder: what are they hiding there under all that smoke and salt?