We’ve waited a long time to review Thai Urban Kitchen, which opened in September, because the place seemed to have an identity crisis. Located in the Ogilvie Transporation Center, the restaurant, about as warm and inviting as a set from A Clockwork Orange, first offered breakfast and no dinner service. Now there’s dinner and no breakfast. There’s a pretty much straightforward Thai menu at lunch and upscale Thai fusion at dinner. And sushi. And weekend brunch. Seriously. Sunday brunch at the train station. Sounds fun.

We’ll have a proper review next week, but I just want to point out that at 8 PM on a Tuesday night Thai Urban Kitchen just may be the loneliest place in the world. At least this had a happy result for my table, which received attentive and well-informed service from a waiter who only had us to worry about. The sole thing he could have done better was remove a napkin each time he brought one.

Anyway, well done, mate.