• Andrea Bauer
  • Cured salmon and fennel jam on brioche circles—this is “farm cuisine”?

In this week’s Food & Drink, Mike Sula reviews Storefront Company, a newish contemporary American restaurant in the Flat Iron Arts Building, where chef Bryan Moscatello has been given free rein under the motto “farm cuisine, modern cooking.” What might that amount to? A whole lot of farm-sourced canapes and small plates, for one, from foie gras bombes to “The Whole Hog,” a $28 tray of bites like cornflake-crusted fried pork liver paired with a finger of breakfast sausage, pork loin on Japanese eggplant, and a crepe stuffed with shredded rib meat and offal. On the other side of the spectrum are simpler preparations such as sliced beef loin drizzled with marrow reduction and an heirloom carrot salad with fresh ricotta, plus composed cheese plates and a few welcome surprises like parsnip cake with cream cheese ice cream and the Bobby Burns, a Scotch-based cocktail served with shortbread. But while these work as accessories, Sula’s take is that Storefront Company still needs to establish a memorable identity of its own.