It’s become a cliche to invoke hipster cliches in any discussion about Logan Square, but mention the neighborhood with the words “coffee shop” in a tone any more positive than scornful and you have a rhetorical struggle ahead of you. You’re already rolling your eyes at the java-stained beards and protectionist noncompete clauses, aren’t you. Don’t be that way.

Gaslight Coffee Roasters began perfuming the intersection of Milwaukee and Fullerton with the aroma of roasting beans about a month ago in spite of the full force of this collective disdain. The beans are distributed to a number of outlets around town, but they’re brewed your way in-house—drip, pour-over, siphon, or espresso—and nobody blinks if your MO involves sugar or cream. On a few occasions I’ve detected a slight burned note in the coffee, but mostly it’s been very good stuff.