• Mike Sula
  • In lieu of poorly lit spaetzle, please accept this poorly lit stained glass

With the ongoing blitzkrieg of neu-Germanic food this year, I wonder if the Berghoff family regrets shutting down its touristy historic namesake restaurant back in 2006. They could always resurrect it, I suppose, but that would be difficult, given most of its interior has been scattered to the winds. Some tables and chairs, for instance, have found their way into Old Town’s Glunz Tavern, which reopened in December just in time to ride the lightning after a hiatus of 80-some years.

In 1888 the old booze-distributing family operated a tavern next door to its Old Town wine shop, but the space was mostly used for storage after Prohibition. In late December Barbara Glunz and her son Christopher Donovan spiffed the place up with a combination of family heirlooms and fixtures from other dead establishments—the bar, for example, comes from the Ambassador East. It’s a cool space, full of old-timey, boozy paraphernalia on the walls, and will serve its neighbors well if only because there’s really no proper barstaurant in the immediate vicinity.