• Spiritualized “pork + watermelon + okra”

In this week’s Food & Drink Mike Sula reviews Graham Elliot Bistro, GEB’s latest project to be named after himself—he has a brand to uphold, after all. The name of the guy in charge of the cooking is Jacob Saben, and he’s been given the task of presenting a straightforward menu of appetizers, pastas, and entrees supposedly incorporating no more than three ingredients each (nonsense). Despite this, dishes like “pork + watermelon + okra” are for the most part balanced and well executed, sometimes even buoyant, though the occasional misfires and hit-or-miss desserts and $12 cocktails may stick in your craw even if the narcissism and rock-and-roll gimcracks don’t.