David Hammond pinch hits Food & Drink in this week’s paper with a roundup of where to get real tacos al pastor–juicy marinated pork, with a bit o’ char, sliced to order from a flamed, rotating spit. As you’ll read, they ain’t easy to come by. Most places don’t get enough traffic to keep the meat tower fired up–a not uncommon complaint about Middle Eastern and Mediterranean variants such as shawarma and gyros. But for a guy like Hammond, life is legwork. After his piece went to press he sussed out a beaut at the Maxwell Street Market at the Rubi’s/Manolo’s tent (pictured at left).

“The guy at Rubi’s was very proud of it,” says Hammond. He was “standing to the side and enthusing ‘real charcoal!'”