It took me a while to make it to Armitage Pizzeria—Lincoln Park’s not among my usual haunts. But there J. Spillane, proud son of Worcester, Massachusetts, is plying his trade, re-creating the gas-fired east-coast-style pizza he grew up with. One of the original owners of Coalfire, he’s a perfectionist down to the tap water in his crusts (the local H2O’s a respectable stand-in for east-coast water, he says—”We’re all in the rust belt”). Grab a stool or sit at one of the two high-top tables and you can watch him lovingly pat down and roll out his dough on a marble countertop.