It seemed like a bad omen, when, after having been at Kitchen 17 all of five minutes, the owner and head chef was forced to jet to the hospital after slicing open his hand while sharpening a knife. Blood and all-vegan restaurants don’t typically get along. But the staff at the new Lakeview spot tucked just off Broadway at 617 W. Briar Place wasn’t phased. Offering an assortment of housemade-seitan dishes, tempeh burgers, and vegan pizzas, the restaurant has the look and feel of a vegan cafe unconcerned with flaunting any sort of pomp—a suspended chalkboard menu, a dumpy kind of cafeteria-style cooler up front, a Band of Horses-themed playlist, and a small gathering of cheap seating were crammed into the modest space. And as the amiable, apologetic owner stepped out the door to get stitches, he left with a wide smile that said, “I’m going to go wait in the ER for a couple of tedious hours to get a dozen stitches or so, but, hey, that’s cool. Hope you like the food. Tell your friends.” I was nearly sold before I sat down.