It’s not such an odd thing to claim the “best spaghetti and meatballs ever” as the back-from-the-dead Centro Ristorante does on its menu. Sure, it’s grandiose and borderline obnoxious, especially considering how much spaghetti and meatballs there is in the world, but not impossible. Case in point: there’s plenty of roast chicken, too, and obviously, as much as it’s possible to determine ephemeral things like historical food, the Zuni Cafe’s recipe is the best roast chicken ever.

The meatballs at Centro are large, approximately the size of regulation tennis balls, or maybe a wee bit larger. You probably couldn’t play tennis with them, though, because they are on the tender side and would get stuck in your racquet and it would be a pain in the ass to clean. They are mostly made out of the traditional meatball meats—beef, pork, and veal—with some bread crumbs and egg and onion and garlic and parsley to hold it all together. There is nothing unorthodox about their composition, no raisins or pine nuts or shrimp.