• Andrea Bauer
  • Sausage-fennel pizzetta, spicy tuna roll, brick chicken diablo at BLT American Brasserie

Mike Sula reviews BLT American Bistro, Laurent Tourondel’s River North restaurant that by trying to offer something for everyone—sushi, pizza, steaks, burgers, ribs, meatballs with polenta, chicken diablo, Thai steak salad, fish-and-chips, a blooming onion—winds up offering everything for no one, except perhaps for the ditherers, killjoys “whose dietary pickiness is such that they’ll only be satisfied at the one place that makes everyone else miserable.” It’s not cheap, either: that burger? $18.