Mike Sula reviews the third incarnation of Pasteur, where peripatetic chef Eric Aubriot has teamed up with Dan Nguyen on a menu that, rather than fusion, is divided between French and Vietnamese cuisine. It’s hit-or-miss, he finds, but he’s still happy to have it back. The lovely room, affordable prices, and tropical cocktails make it “a worthwhile place to visit if you feel like inserting yourself into a Graham Greene novel.”