Back in September Jean Joho published his first cookbook, and I’m sorry to say it completely escaped my notice.

That’s probably because it has little to do with Joho’s local Lettuce restaurants, Everest and Brasserie Jo, and everything to do with the Eiffel Tower Restaurant, the Lettuce joint in the Paris Las Vegas hotel and casino’s Eiffel Tower replica.

Can’t say I’ve had the pleasure of eating there, but the book seems less a practical kitchen tool or a glimpse into the mind of the illustrious chef than a souvenir of the casino. It’s covered in red suede like a box of chocolates; I’ve found myself absentmindedly stroking it like a cat as I sit here attending to other matters. I suppose it’s possible I may one day get around to whipping up some sweet corn madeleines with caviar or sole petite grenobloise. Gotta give him credit for including a foie gras recipe in this day and age–and not only that, but an old school, chilled torchon wrapped in cured duck breast that takes about two days to prepare.

Coauthor is Chandra Ram, editor of the local Plate magazine.