Publican-brand pastry chef Dana Cree’s cookbook Hello, My Name Is Ice Cream is out now, and it should be priority one for cooks who’ve dreamed of making their own frozen dairy products only to be foiled by ice cream enemy number one: ice itself. Cree, whose career-long runup to this book involved attending Penn State’s Ice Cream University, opens the alluring volume with a deep dive into the science behind ice cream, explaining how ice, fat, protein, sugar, and air alchemize into the miracle we all love. Along the way she provides numerous options or “texture methods” for reducing the size of ice crystals, leading to a smooth end product. And then there are the recipes, divided into custard ice creams (green cardamom, pumpkin sage), eggless Philadelphia-style ice creams (Parmesan, cheesecake), sherbets (blood orange, avocado-grapefruit), and frozen yogurt (spiced cane syrup, hibiscus), plus recipes for add-ins (butterscotch ripple, cinnamon-brown sugar streusel), all culminating in a chapter on epic composed scoops like the multipart recipe listed below. It concludes with an appendix on ratios to help you create your own recipes. Recipes are after the jump.
Cree will address all of this as well as ice cream history at Saturday’s meeting of the Culinary Historians of Chicago at 10 AM at Kendall College, 900 N. North Branch, where she’ll serve samples and sign books; it’s $5. And next Friday, April 21, she’ll appear at Foodease, 835 N. Michigan, at noon.
Donut Ice Cream
Makes between 1 and 1 ½ quarts ice cream
Baked goods do something peculiar when boiled with milk: they dissolve and become stretchy and elastic. Throw the mixture into a blender, and this strange concoction becomes velvety and thick, like pudding. I first encountered this magic trick at a restaurant full of them, called Alinea. There, a pudding made by boiling brioche and cream was served with raspberries for an elegant “toast-and-jam” bite. Since then, I’ve applied the same principle to just about every other kind of bakery treat I can get my hands on—like gingerbread or devil’s food cake. Most recently, I’ve been reducing glazed donuts to a velvety pudding to flavor ice cream.
Buy the most delicious glazed donut you can find. This might be from a local shop where donuts are hand-forged, or from Krispy Kreme, or even from your grocery store’s bakery case. And don’t stop at donuts; you can use this recipe with any cake, cookie, or pastry you desire.
380g | 2 cups
370g | 1¾ cups
150g | ¾ cup
50g | ¼ cup
Glazed donut (5%)
50g | 2 ounces (about ½ large donut or 1 small)
3g | ½ teaspoon
Kosher or sea salt
2g | ⅓ teaspoon
Texture agent of your choice
1 Best texture
3g | 1 teaspoon mixed with the sugar before it is added to the ice cream base.
2 Least icy
Guar or xanthan gum
1g | 1/4 teaspoon whirled in a blender with the ice cream base after it is chilled in the ice bath.
3 Easiest to use
5g | 2 teaspoons mixed with 20g | 2 tablespoons of cold milk, whisked into the ice cream base after it is finished cooking.
4 Most accessible
10g | 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon, mixed with 20g | 2 tablespoons of cold milk, whisked into the simmering ice cream base, then cooked for 1 minute.
Boil the dairy. Place the cream, milk, sugar (1), and glucose in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat and cook, whisking occasionally to discourage the milk from scorching, until it comes to a full rolling boil.
Cook the donut. Add the donut to the dairy, breaking it up with a whisk while you stir it in. Reduce the heat and cook at a low simmer for 2 minutes (4), whisking occasionally to help break up the donut.
Blend the base. Remove the pot from heat and carefully transfer the hot base to a blender. Add the vanilla and salt, and start blending on low speed at first, increasing gradually to full speed, to avoid the hot liquid jumping out the top. When the blender is on high, continue blending for 1 to 2 minutes, until very smooth (3).
Chill. Immediately pour the base into a shallow metal or glass bowl. Working quickly, fill a large bowl two-thirds of the way with very icy ice water. Nest the hot bowl into this ice bath, stirring occasionally until it cools down (2).
Strain. When the ice cream base is cool to the touch (50°F or below), strain it through a fine-mesh sieve. (This step is optional, but will help ensure the smoothest ice cream possible.)
Cure. Transfer the ice cream base to the refrigerator to cure for 4 hours, or preferably overnight. (This step is also optional, but the texture will be much improved with it.)
Churn. Place the base into the bowl of an ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The ice cream is ready when it thickens into the texture of soft-serve ice cream and holds its shape, typically 20 to 30 minutes.
Harden. To freeze your ice cream in the American hard-pack style, immediately transfer it to a container with an airtight lid. Press plastic wrap directly on the surface of the ice cream to prevent ice crystals from forming, cover, and store it in your freezer until it hardens completely, between 4 and 12 hours. Or, feel free to enjoy your ice cream immediately; the texture will be similar to soft-serve.
Top-Notch Donut Ice Cream
Makes between 1 1/2 and 2 quarts ice cream
Donut fanatics: this ice cream was created especially for you. Swirling the fudge ripple and sprinkles into this ice cream mimics the chocolate glaze and sprinkles of one of my favorite donuts, but don’t stop there! You can replicate any of your favorite donuts by, for example, adding Lemon Curd (page 147) or raspberry jam, or sprinkling in coconut flakes or chocolate jimmies!
150g | ¾ cup Fudge Ripple
15g | 3 tablespoons sprinkles
1 batch Donut Ice Cream, just churned
Follow the method for layering bits and ripples (see below)
Layering Bits and Ripples
Chill the container. Place a storage container in the freezer; you’ll want it very cold before you fill it.
Layer the ice cream with the add-ins. Remove the chilled container from the freezer, drizzle a couple spoonfuls of the ripple, and scatter a few pieces of the bits over the bottom. Spread one-third of the just-churned ice cream into the container. Drizzle one-third of the ripple over the ice cream and sprinkle one-third of the bits over as well. Repeat the layers two more times. Plunge a spatula through the layers four or five times to distribute the add-ins.
Freeze. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the ice cream, cover the container with a lid, and place it in the freezer for 4 to 12 hours, until completely frozen.
MAKES JUST OVER 1 PINT
There is nothing more quintessential to an ice cream than a fudge ripple. It took me all of one try to master the perfect fudge ripple for ice cream because I’d already found the perfect hot fudge recipe, a simple version in Alice Medrich’s book Bittersweet. For truly spectacular fudge, I prefer Cocoa Barry extra brute cocoa powder, or the super-dark and smoky cocoa powder from Valrhona. But feel free to use your favorite brand.
This recipe is designed to be soft and chewy at frozen temperatures. If you want a hot fudge recipe, replace the glucose with an equal amount of sugar and double the cream. Finally, finish the sauce by stirring in 25g | 2 tablespoons of butter for a hot fudge you won’t likely stray from again.
Cocoa powder 75g | 1 cup
Sugar 50g | ¼ cup
Salt 5g | 1 teaspoon
Glucose 100g | ½ cup
Cream 200g | 1 cup
Mix the dry ingredients. Place the cocoa powder, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl and whisk everything until evenly combined.
Heat the wet ingredients. Place the glucose and cream in a medium saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, whisking to dissolve the glucose. When the cream comes to a full rolling boil, remove the pot from heat.
Mix the dry and wet ingredients. Add one-third of the hot cream to the cocoa powder, and whisk to a thick paste. Add the cream in two more additions, whisking between each until smooth.
Cook the fudge. Transfer the fudge back to the pot, scraping the sides of the bowl clean with a rubber spatula. This is important for the final texture; if you leave any fudge behind, your ripple will be too thin. Place the pot over medium-low heat and cook, stirring with a rubber spatula to prevent scorching, until the fudge starts to bubble and is very smooth.
Strain. Pass the fudge through a fine-mesh sieve to catch any lumps of undissolved cocoa powder, then transfer the fudge ripple to an airtight container. Store the fudge in the refrigerator for a week before using, or in the freezer for up to a month.
Reprinted with permission from Hello, My Name Is Ice Cream, Clarkson Potter, 2017.