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  • Midwestern fine-dining trends reach New York

The other day, in its otherwise perfectly fine Pizza Issue, the New York Times ran a short piece by Pete Wells on deep-fried pizza, in which the new-ish food critic (who’s no Sam Sifton, by the way, or even Frank Bruni) waxes comparative on the relationship between the item in question—an actual Italian import—and the cuisine of Wisconsin, where once a year there’s a state fair with a lot of deep-fried food. “New Yorkers are open to new ideas, but they are not ready just yet to take their pizza cues from Wisconsin,” Wells concludes.