Noon-O-Kabab, the outrageously popular Kedzie Avenue Persian restaurant, opened its dedicated delivery/takeout station down the block from the mother ship three weeks ago, in the space formerly occupied by a much-missed Cambodian grocery. I’ve never quite understood the appeal of NOK. It’s always struck me as pretty workmanlike and overpriced for the neighborhood, offering stuff not much more appealing than dry kebabs over lifeless buttered rice. But with temperatures reaching Pluto-like lows last night, we thought we’d see if a few of the more unusual items might improve after a seven-block trip though the frozen night.

Our order made it well under the promised 45 minutes, but was mostly disappointing: watery saffron-chicken soup; fesenjan, thick, supersweet walnut-pomegranate stew with chunks of chicken breast; and adass polo, a new item–a scattering of lentils, raisins, caramelized onions, and saffron that might have been good on its own if it hadn’t been scattered across a mountain of that plain rice. But the highlight, an old favorite–kashke bademjan, a terrific baba-ganoush-like spread of eggplant, mint, dried yogurt sauce, and caramelized onions–came through just fine.

One little bonus: our order arrived with two handy foil packets of powdered sumac, one of my favorite condiments, one of which is now stashed in the backpack with the mini Tabasco bottle.

Noon-O-Kabab, 4661 N. Kedzie, 773-279-9309
Noon-O-Kabab Pickup, Delivery, and Catering, 4651 N. Kedzie, 773-279-8899