• Andrea Bauer
  • Potato hash with duck heart gravy at Au Cheval

Mike Sula reviews Au Cheval, the new Randolph Row venture from prolific chef/entrepreneur Brendan Sodikoff. Sula brought a dieter with him to dinner, but won’t repeat that mistake—there’s nothing for weak eaters on the menu at the closest thing Chicago has to Montreal glutton mecca Au Pied de Cochon. While at APdC the focus is foie, Sula found the centerpiece for many of Sodikoff’s successes to be the egg—you can get it scrambled with foie gras, poached in chilaquiles, beside bacon and escarole in a salad, or crowning a croque madame. Or on fries, with chives, peppers, mornay sauce, and aioli. Or atop potato hash with duck heart gravy. There are 30 craft beers on tap, and desserts are simple, with options including a house-made root beer float (with Black Dog gelato) and mille feuille meant to share.