At this late hour of the modernist epicurean era—foam is over; chefs light hay on fire—ingredients are myriad, and you could go through an entire wheat-free meal without noticing any lack. You wouldn’t notice, at Senza—whose name comes from the Italian word for without—but for the fact that this new Lakeview fine dining spot advertises its glutenlessness. You’d more quickly notice how good everything on the menu looks, with dishes listed, as is au courant, by their chief ingredient: “Tagliatelle.” “Duck.” The terse style is another indication that you’re not playing with amateurs here. The chef, Noah Sandoval, put in time as a sous chef at Schwa and Spring; this restaurant wants to present a menu that, as the website puts it, “appeals to the entire dining community.”

(It should go without saying that a restaurant that emphasizes its appeal with phrases like “the entire dining community” will be serving a menu that’s affordable to only a few of its members—if by “entire dining community” you’re talking about, you know, people who eat. About the more catholic appeal of the specialized menu, point taken; thriftier diners will still want to consider going to Subway, though, and just ordering without the bread.)