• Sky Full of Bacon
  • Kevin Hickey

On Wednesday Allium, chef Kevin Hickey’s redo of Seasons, opened in the Four Seasons Hotel Chicago, with an intriguing seasonal menu divided into the categories “Smaller,” “Bigger,” “Mine,” and “From the Meat Locker.” The result is pricing ranging from $8 for apple-celeriac soup to $62 for a 14-ounce beef tenderloin chop, with many in the first two categories running at around $15. It’s eclectic: there’s a Chicago hot dog “with homemade everything” ($14), game bird sausage with grits and foraged berry jus ($16), gnocchi with clams and pork cheeks ($15), and suckling pig flatbread with cracklings ($14), as well as standards like brick chicken or Wagyu skirt steak (both $24), charcuterie, oysters, and a burger (the last is $15 and comes with Dunbarton blue cheddar, a fried egg, bacon-fat-fried onions, and “secret sauce”). Under “Mine” are entrees like wild striped bass with hominy and lobster and duck breast with confit dumpling, dried cherry, and caraway-braised cabbage (both $32). Hickey’s also serving an Allium beer he brewed in conjunction with Goose Island.