A few years back Reader food writer Mike Sula had little but praise for Matt Eversman, opening chef at the West Loop Vietnamese restaurant Saigon Sisters. Young and with not much more than culinary school, an externship at Charlie Trotter’s, and a line-cook gig under his belt, Eversman was nevertheless coming up with dishes “as audacious as grilled confit octopus clinging to a stretch of rice dyed black with cuttlefish ink” and an “utterly corrupting op la” with fried eggs, pork belly, Benton’s country ham, Chinese sausage, and a pork bun. He drew praise from others as well—the Trib‘s Phil Vettel gave the 34-seat Saigon Sisters a “smiley-face review,” and Time Out‘s readers named Eversman 2011’s Breakout Chef of the Year. Then he split, leaving after seven months to open his own place.