- Mike Sula
- Spaghetti alla bottarga
A fairly common, poetic, and I think accurate description of good, fresh uni (aka sea urchin gonad), is that it tastes of sea foam. But as a young shaver, the first I ever put in my mouth, at a New Orleans sushi bar, prompted an involuntary gag reaction that sent me straight to the restroom (to the utter disgust of the chef).
I’m appreciative of that texture now, but those who aren’t—and those who are even a bit leery of caviar—might like to take a look at bottarga di muggine. That’s the salted, cured roe of the gray mullet, produced most famously in Sardinia (though made elsewhere). Last month blogger Mark S. of From Belly to Bacon happened upon Sardinian bottarga at the great Randolph Street Italian sundries and sandwich shop J.P. Graziano.