Robert Adams Sr. is now smoking brisket at Honey 1 Barbeque. As he does with his ribs, he smokes the beef low and slow—12 hours—but not to the point where it loses all structural integrity. He told me it was important that he not produce a brisket that disintegrates into mush at the slightest disturbance, and there is a marked tensility to it, which allows him to slice it thick. And he’s applying a light, subtle rub that produces a thin bark. Normally he’s quite open about his process, but on this subject he refused to say a word.

The brisket I tried last Thursday was only the third he deemed worthy to serve, so I’m sure this is a developing situation.