MAK Modern Asian Kitchen has a clean, spare look—polished wood, gleaming metal, and neutral paint—that’s oddly reminiscent of a Chipotle. It’s set up sort of like Chipotle, too, with counter service and a menu designed around a few proteins, all of which are hormone, steroid, and antibiotic free. A half dozen “bowls” (consisting of a protein, rice, and usually some kind of sauce) are joined by a few wraps and a handful of soups, salads, and sides.

There’s not much in the way of appetizers, but the chicken “wangs”—probably the only thing on the menu that would fall into that category—are also the best reason to visit the restaurant. Frenched and glazed with a sweet, spicy gluten-free sauce that involves chili powder, garlic, onion, soy sauce, sugar, and vinegar, these fried chicken lollipops are crisp and beautifully seasoned. They’re not searingly spicy at first, but the heat builds quickly. I’ve never had the much-lauded Korean-style wings at Great Sea, so I can’t compare the two, but I wouldn’t be surprised if MAK becomes another destination for aficionados.